Tag Archives: Argentina

Ushuaia

Ushuaia

Ushuaia from the Beagle Channel

The last leg of our Argentine adventure was in the Southernmost city in the world — Ushuaia. We were both curious to make it all the way to the end of the continent since we were already so far south but, in truth, our main goal while there was really just to see penguins.

Macondo House

Macondo House

We stayed at the Macondo House — a nice guest house set on the hill away from the heavily touristed streets. Ushuaia is a cruise ship stop, so the streets would periodically fill with tourists when one (or more) of the huge cruise ships came in. The city is also a jumping off point for tours to Antarctica and tourist agents were selling last minute tours at discounted prices (unfortunately lack of time, funds, and Julie’s concerns about being able to handle the seasickness meant this wasn’t in the cards for us). The city felt a lot like Seattle — a rainy port city. We found Ushuaia to be a bit rough around the edges, but the setting was pretty spectacular.

Beagle Channel ViewsOur first day in town we walked down by the docks and booked a Beagle Channel boat trip for that afternoon. We booked a tour with Patagonia Adventure Explorer; we’d read that they use smaller boats that can get closer to the islands than the large catamarans that some of the tour companies use. The trip was indeed on a pretty small boat, and there were only 15 people on the tour so it wasn’t crowded. The trip took us out and around the picturesque lighthouse, by two islands with Rock Cormorants, by an island with a noisy sea lion colony, and then we had a brief stop on Islas Bridges where we disembarked and walked around to view some of the flora. Unfortunately it was a bit cold and started raining, so we didn’t linger too long before returning to the boat.

Lighthouse

Lighthouse in the Beagle Channel

Rock Cormorants

One of the Rock Cormorant colonies

Sea Lions

The Sea Lion Colony

Lazy Sea Lion

A particularly tired Sea Lion

Isla Bridges

Isla Bridges

The next day we took a tour out to see a penguin colony. The tour involved first taking a minibus to Estancia Harberton. Surprisingly, this drive was the most harrowing of our entire trip, and we were both looking green by the time we got to Estancia Harberton. We then got on a little boat which took us out to Martillo Island (about a 15 minute ride). When we got about within 100 ft of the shore they cut the engine, and then we realized that there were penguins in the water all around us. We had been talking and joking about seeing the penguins for the whole trip, and for months before. When we did finally head out on this tour we both tad worried that it wouldn’t live up to our by now totally outsized expectations. Those concerns vanished when we got off the boat onto the shore. There were penguins everywhere (mostly Magellanic but maybe a couple dozen Gentoo as well), getting into the water, getting out of the water, jumping out of the water, laying on the beach,walking up to their nests, squawking, and occasionally looking to see what these tourists were doing. Perhaps if penguins were as numerous as pigeons then they wouldn’t be so novel and amusing, but seeing these goofy, tubby, awkward birds in their own habitat was just super-cool; not to mention having the dramatic scenery of the Beagle Channel as a backdrop.

Estancia Harberton

Estancia Harberton

Boat to Martillo Island

The little boat that took us to Martillo Island

Ushuaia-Penguins-1

Ushuaia-Penguins-2

Ushuaia-Penguins-3

Ushuaia-Penguins-4

Ushuaia-Penguins-5

Ushuaia-Penguins-6

Ushuaia-Penguins-7

Practical Stuff:

  • It was easy to book our Beagle channel tour that same day. Down at the “tourist dock” all the different tour companies have little stands and despite being high season it seemed like none of the tours were full that day.
  • Pira tour is the only company that runs tours that actually disembark Martillo Island (other companies take boats that go to the island but the penguins can only be viewed from the water). We also got the impression that Pira tour was doing the trips in a responsible manner; we were clearly instructed to remain at least several feet away the penguins, and the guides were knowledgeable and keep an eye on everyone to ensure that the penguins were not disturbed.
Ushuaia at Dusk

The view across Ushuaia at Dusk

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Driving from El Calafate to Torres del Paine

Welcome to Chile

After a few days in El Calafate we were ready to head to Torres del Paine in Chile. We had tried to find information about the drive prior to our trip and managed to figure out that it was possible although we were a bit unclear on the state of the roads. We did manage to gather that the drive was possible with certain rental car companies (like Hertz) and that it didn’t require a four wheel drive vehicle.

Hertz was helpful in providing us with the paperwork we needed to cross the border, and we were somewhat comforted to see stamps indicating the car had made it across the border before since it didn’t exactly feel like a rugged vehicle. They had also given us guidance on the best roads to take — from the map there looked like two options. The rental car rep had recommended we not take what looked like a shortcut (the unpaved section of Ruta 40 that bypasses Esperanza) because of poor road conditions and the need to fill up at the gas station located on the longer route. She also mentioned another station closer to the border that we should stop at. “They may not have gas here. But if they do, you should get it.”

Ruta 40

The dirt section of Ruta 40 turing off from Ruta 5, this is the road that they didn't recommend we take

On the morning of January 5th we ate breakfast and went to fill up our gas tank before leaving El Calafate. Unfortunately, the gas station near our hotel was out of the gas we needed (Super) and when we drove to the other station in town they were also out and said they wouldn’t get more until 5:00 that evening. We were estimating the drive would take at least 5 hours but didn’t want to head out so late. We had half a tank of gas but were unsure if that was enough to get us to the next town, so we drove to Hertz to ask what they recommended and they were kind enough to call ahead to Esperanza (fittingly “hope” in Spanish) to see if they had gas. They did, so we jumped in the car and made it to the town, which didn’t seem to consist of much more than a truck stop. But they did have gas.

The road from El Calafate to Esperanza and from there to Cancha Carrera was paved and in good condition. We stopped in Estancia Tapi Aike for gas, having learned our lesson about getting gas when we could. It turned out the small store did have gas, the attendant just had to run out to turn on the generator in order to pump it for us.

Road to the Border

Yes, you're going the right way -- the dirt road to the Chilean border

About four miles before reaching the Argentine border crossing we turned onto a dirt road that continued most of the way to the park (although there was a brief span of pavement just after the Chile Border crossing).

Argentinian Border Crossing

The Argentinian side of the border crossing

When we came to the Argentine border crossing were at first unsure if we needed to stop both there and at the Chile border crossing, but after some broken Spanish exchanges we figured out that we did need to stop. The office was small and a bit chaotic, but we made it through, drove a bit more, and then reached the office for the Chilean border. That office was bigger, a bit more orderly, and had public bathrooms (the first of which we’d seen since Esperanza).

Nearby there are several small gift shops/convenience store type shops. We stopped in one in order to change some US dollars to Chilean pesos (they only accepted US dollars or Euros for exchange — we had come to realize that the cross-border relations were a tad chilly). The exchange rate seemed reasonable, but they would only change our pristine bills; they didn’t even take a clean $20 that had been folded.

Once in Chile we drove for about another hour on pavement and dirt roads before encountering the park entry office, where we stopped to pay entrance fees. From here on the road became significantly more sinuous and the scenery more impressive. From the park entry it probably took us about another hour to get to Hosteria Pehoe, where we were staying.

Open Road

The open road -- this is what much of the drive was like

Practical Stuff:

  • Route (here’s a map): Ruta 11 east out of El Calafate, continue after the road connects with Ruta 40. When Ruta 40 splits off to the right (and turns into dirt) continue to Esperanza on Ruta 5. From Esperanza drive west on Ruta 7 and atEstancia Tapi Aike Ruta 40 rejoins the road. Continue on the paved road to the Cancha Carrera turnoff, where the road again turns to the west. After the two border crossings turn right and drive north to Torres del Paine.
  • Timing: The drive going there took us 8 hours, it was closer to 6 on the way back. You could do it faster if you want to drive like the Argentinians at insanely high speeds. However, it’s good to allow a full day as the Argentine border crossing was crowded and slow.
  • Borders: We crossed at Cancha Carrera (called Rio Don Guillermo on the Chilean side), which is less frequented than the border crossing near Rio Turbio, but shorter from El Calafate so a better bet if you are on your own.  They were doing some construction on the Chilean side of the border, so it may be expanding. At the border crossings we had to wait in lines to show first our passports at one window and then the documents for our car at another window. This process was more clear at the Chilean border, but harder to figure out at the Argentine border which was packed with a lot of people who weren’t exactly patiently waiting in an orderly line (on the way back we were more ready to throw some elbows to hold our position).
  • Maps: We bought road/hiking maps at one of the gas stations in Calafate and got a map of Torres del Paine from the park entry office.
  • Get gas when you can!  We aren’t sure if running out of gas in Calafate was an anomaly, but it made us understand why our rental car rep recommended filling up when we could.  We had enough gas for getting into the park for driving around the park/returning.  We met a couple who had managed to buy a little gas off of someone once inside the park, but it was for a premium ($18 per gallon!)

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El Chalten and Mt. Fitz Roy

Fitz Roy

Mt. Fitz Roy: More ugly Patagonian scenery

Patagonian Biker

If this plus 50 mile per hour winds sounds great to you then Patagonia is a fine place for your next bike tour

The next day we decided to drive up to El Chalten to see Mt. Fitz Roy and to go for a hike. The drive was pretty straightforward and the road was paved the whole way and it probably took us a bit longer than two and a half hours to get there. The traffic was pretty much non-existent; we were maybe expecting to see a few more cars and buses doing the drive since El Chalten was relatively close to El Calafate and it was peak of the travel season. We did, however, see a number of bike tourers. Now riding across Patagonia would certainly be a hell of an adventure, but unless your idea of a great bike ride involves high winds and long stretches of flat and empty roads it would also be a hell of a slog. We also couldn’t quite figure out where these guys were staying at night — with the distances between towns they would have to be camping out pretty much just by the side of the road for nights on end.

Fitz Roy and road

What is more impressive, our Chevy Corsa or Mt. Fitz Roy?

As we neared El Chalten we came across our first stunning view of Fitz Roy, nearby Cerro Torre was shrouded in clouds, as it would stay the entire day. A bit further down the road we came into El Chalten, which is tucked into a river valley below the mountains — “tucked” in enough so that you didn’t have a view of the stunning nearby mountains from in town. We stopped at the park visitor center which is right at the entrance to town. They were helpful and suggested “Mirador Fitz Roy” as a good day hike. After lunch at a a low key cafe in town we drove over to the Fitz Roy trail head and started up the trail.

The weather during the hike was possibly the best that we had the whole time in Patagonia: sunny, warm, and not windy.  After talking to someone on the trail who had been backpacking in the rain for the past couple days it confirmed that these sorts of days weren’t terribly common there. The trail gained probably about a thousand feet over a couple miles, then reached a broad valley with Fitz Roy as the backdrop. Right upon reaching the valley is the “Mirador Fitz Roy”, but the great view continues as you progress up the trail. We probably continued on the trail for another mile or so; with the great weather and the long day we pretty much had to force ourselves to turn around and head back to the car.

Practical Stuff:

  • Here’s a road map of the route, it really is a pretty easy drive.
  • And here’s a trail map for the El Chalten area. El Chalten did seems like probably the best location for day hikes that we saw in Patagonia. However, as is the case for the rest of Patagonia, don’t expect the weather to necessarily cooperate.
Lago Argentino

Lago Argentino from the road to El Chalten

Fitz Roy Trailhead

The Fitz Roy Trailhead

Glacier Piedras Blancas

Glacier Piedras Blancas

Fitz Roy and Trail

Fitz Roy from and the trail to Laguna de los Tres

Rio de Las Vueltas

View of Rio de Las Vueltas from the trail

El Chalten

El Chalten from the Fitz Roy Trailhead

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El Calafate and the Perito Moreno Glacier

Perito Moreno Glacier

Perito Moreno Glacier -- wow.

El Calafate

On January 2nd we flew from Buenos Aires to El Calafate. When we picked up our rental car in at the airport the first thing the rental guy showed us was where the spare and jack were, so we knew it would be a bit different driving experience than at home. Then we walked around the tin can of a car, a Chevrolet Corsa, and noted a chunk of exterior missing above the rear tire, a slight crack in the windshield, and splattered black asphalt marks. After running through the checklist the Hertz rep said, “Be careful of the animals and the wind, you have light until 11:00 and it’s beautiful country — have fun!”

Despite the hesitancy that the Hertz guy left us with, the drive into El Calafate was quick. There is a police checkpoint just at the edge of town though. That first time through we were not sure what to expect, and so when we pulled up to the checkpoint we had just about every available document we could get our hands on at the ready but when the policeman asked us “Where are you coming from?” (in Spanish of course) we just looked at him like idiots. We weren’t the first tourist idiots he’d seen (and it was pretty clear that we weren’t a threat to the security of El Calafate) so he waved us on, and of course shortly after pulling away Julie figured out what he was asking us. From then on we got the gist: if they stop you on the way out of town they’d ask “Where are you going?”, and then on the way into town would ask “Where are you coming from?”.

Linda Vista Apart Hotel

Linda Vista Apart Hotel

We stayed at Linda Vista Apart Hotel during our three nights in El Calafate. Our room, really two separate rooms and a small kitchen, was nice, and probably the largest we stayed in during the trip. The owners were friendly and helpful, and the location was close enough to the center of town that we could easily walk to dinner. The restaurants in town were better than we were expecting, if a bit more expensive than in Buenos Aires. In fact we had some of the best pasta we ate in Argentina at Casimiro Bigua Trattoria. Overall it was a nice town to spend a few nights in, and had a surprisingly familiar “Colorado mountain town” like feel.

Perito Moreno Glacier

The Road to Perito Moreno Glacier

The Road to Perito Moreno Glacier

The day after we arrived in El Calafate we drove out to see the truly impressive Perito Moreno Glacier. The drive was straightforward and took us a bit longer than a hour and a half. At the entrance to Parque Nacional los Glaciares, which you reach about twenty minutes before reaching the glacier, there is a ranger station where you stop and pay the entrance fee. The road from here becomes narrower, and begins winding through a forest of southern beech trees and crossing the occasional burbling stream. Eventually we were directed into a parking lot where we left the rental car and took a minibus that shuttled us to the top of the hill where we got the first expansive view of the glacier.

Catwalks at Perito Moreno Glacier

Some of the Extensive Catwalks at Perito Moreno Glacier

On one side of the small parking lot at the hilltop is a recently constructed and very nice cafeteria, gift shop, and public bathroom. On the other side a network of catwalks leads down the hill towards the glacier. They are still completing construction of the catwalks, but when we were there it seemed as though there was about a mile of catwalks spread across the hill. The lower levels of the catwalk are at least a couple hundred feet below the level of the upper parking lot, and feel amazingly close to the glacier. They also spread out far enough horizontally that you can both get totally different perspectives of the glacier and also can get away from the crowds. The most entrancing aspect of the glacier is the nearly continuous calving. Even the “small” pieces that fall off the face of the glacier generate a surprisingly hearty “boom”, and truly big chunks sound like what I’d imagine a head on collision between two freight trains would sound like. At the end of the day we really had to tear ourselves away to leave. Even standing at the top of the hill waiting for the minibus to take us back to our car we’d hear the booms of the ice being shed off the glacier, and it was difficult to resist the urge to run over to the overlook to try to catch another glimpse.

Perito Moreno Glacier 2

Perito Moreno Glacier 3

Perito Moreno Glacier 4

Boat Near Perito Moreno Glacier

Perito Moreno Glacier 6

Roadside Scenery

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Buenos Aires

Palermo Soho

Palermo Sidewalk

A sidewalk in Palermo Soho

After reading a fair amount about the neighborhoods in Buenos Aires we settled on staying in Palermo Soho (interchangeably called Palermo Viejo). There are a bunch of great boutique hotels that are scattered throughout both Palermo Soho and the neighboring Palermo Hollywood, and after our usual over-extensive Tripadvisor trolling we settled on the Craft Hotel, which we’d highly recommend, with the caveat that you shouldn’t stay at a place like the Craft hotel looking for large and extravagantly furnished rooms and/or a long and very quiet night’s sleep. The upside of the street noise is the awesome location, there are at least four great sidewalk cafes and rooftop bars within a block. Strolling the streets, drinking at the cafes, and eating at the restaurants of Palermo Soho was the highlight of our time in Buenos Aires. Although there are bars, restaurants and shops sprinkled throughout Palermo Soho, the highest density is in the blocks between and around Plaza Serrano and Plaza Palermo Viejo.

Palermo Soho Cafes

Two cafes adjacant to Plaza Palermo Viejo

Craft Hotel

Craft Hotel in Palermo Soho

El Preferido de Palermo

El Preferido de Palermo in Palermo Soho

Palermo Soho Street Sceen

Typical side street in Palermo Soho

Typical Palermo architecture

Typical Architecture in Palermo Soho

Palermo Hollywood

This neighborhood adjacent to Palermo Soho, is just across a set of trains tracks. We only wandered over here once, and it seems as though it shares a similar feel to Soho, and is perhaps more “up and coming.” Unfortunately, the train tracks and the nearby areas in both neighborhoods looked a little rough around the edges, and we didn’t really feel super comfortable walking across the tracks at night so we ended up spending most of our time in Soho.

San Telmo

Defensa in San Telmo

Defensa, one of the central streets in San Telmo

Reading about Buenos Aires it became quickly clear that San Telmo was another neighborhood to check out, so we took the Subte (the subway/metro system in Buenos Aires) over there on our second day in the city. After a bit of wandering around and getting lost we managed to get our bearings and found Defensa, the principle street running through San Telmo which many of the restaurants and businesses are located on. We ate lunch at a nice french place, Brasserie Petanque, then wandered down to Plaza Dorrego. We thought that San Telmo was a pretty interesting neighborhood with some cool architecture and good restaurants. Plaza Dorrego surprised us as being somewhat touristy (more so than anything we ran across in Palermo Soho). Also, although Defensa and the neighboring few blocks were nice, the outlying streets were narrow, treeless, and a maybe a tad bleak. Overall, we thought that San Telmo was a Buenos Aires “must-see” but we were glad that we were staying in Palermo Soho instead.

Balcony in San Telmo

Typical Architecture in San Telmo

Brasserie Petanque

Brasserie Petanque in San Telmo

Iglesia Nuestra Señora de Belén

Iglesia Nuestra Señora de Belén in San Telmo

Recoleta

Recoleta Street Sceen

Typical side street in Recoleta

Another neighborhood on our “to see” list was Recoleta, home to the Cementerio de la Recoleta and seemed like the “Upper East Side” of Buenos Aires. On our third day we took the subway over to wander around. First we went to the Cemetery, which was a fascinating place. The scale and detail of the mausoleums is pretty amazing — there is no doubt that the wealth in Buenos Aires in the 1800 and 1900s was on the scale of New York or Paris. Despite all of this though, our favorite aspect of the Cemetery was the freely roaming cats throughout. This is where we got our amazing idea for the “Cats of Buenos Aires” calendar. Afterwords we stopped at the nearby La Biela cafe for our afternoon drinks and snacks. Similar to Palermo Soho, we found that the streets of Recoleta were quiet and tree lined, and in fact noticeably a bit cleaner and better kept than those in Palermo. Recoleta seems like it would be a pretty good place to stay, especially for those who are less enticed by the youthful energy (and bars) of Palermo.

Recoleta Cementerio

Some of the elaborate mausoleums in the Recoleta Cementerio

Recoleta Cementerio Cat

One of the many cats in the Recoleta Cementerio

La Biela

Afternoon refreshment at La Biela in Recoleta

Practical Stuff

  • We had heard there were limits on ATM withdrawals/problems getting change prior to visiting Argentina. We didn’t really have issues with withdrawing larger amounts and getting change most places, although we tried to break “big” 100 peso bills strategically and the subway had a sign up saying they couldn’t take large bills.
  • The only time we took taxis was to and from the airport. In many guidebooks it seems like the taxis are highlighted as the way to get around, and they were cheap compared to the US; however, we found the Subte (at least during the daylight hours) to be a great choice for getting around. The price was right, 1.10 pesos (around .30 cents) a ride, and traffic wasn’t an issue. The cars aren’t air conditioned, and they got pretty crowded during rush hours, but the Subte system seemed safe and pretty convenient.
  • We generally felt pretty safe when walking around the city. It felt very similar to a European city like Barcelona. As with any big city, there were some areas that were probably better to avoid (we followed what our guidebook suggested on this), but in general the areas we visited seemed comfortably traversable.

Restaurants

We ate at some great restaurants in Buenos Aires. La Cabrera was our first dinner in Buenos Aires and gave us a great first impression of dining in Argentina. Despite being thoroughly “discovered” (we had the pleasure of being seated next to a couple of tables full of stereotypical Long Islanders) it was still one of the best steaks we ate in Argentina. The array of creative small sides dishes that were also included really made this a great meal. The absolute best steaks we had in Argentina were at Lo de Jesus, which is only about four blocks away from La Cabrera. The crowd is mellower, but the prices were a bit higher (though a generous beef tenderloin is still only about $15 USD). Another cool place we ate at in Palermo Soho was El Preferido de Palermo (noted in a recent NYT piece). It’s essentially a neighborhood deli that has been in that location for nearly 60 years.

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